A flight from Beijing to New York typically takes about 16 hours.

But for many Chinese migrants, this route to America is off-limits. Instead, theirs is a months-long multi-country trek through harsh terrain with dangerous wildlife and even deadlier people.

“Lucy”, 13, and her parents are among those who embarked on the perilous migration route to reach their Promised Land.

This is their story.

WALK THE LINE

Chengdu, China

Lucy (extreme right) lived with her parents in Chengdu, China, and studied at a local church school.

But her school and church were deemed illegal in China and both were shut down.

For a couple of months, Lucy was home-schooled, which was also illegal. But the authorities found out, and the family’s landlord told them that he could not renew their lease.

That was the straw that broke the camel’s back. Lucy’s father hatched a plan to get the family out of China.

New York, USA

They set their destination for the US, where “Dad” believed they would get a taste of freedom.

Lucy was drawn to New York City in particular.

But they could not migrate by simply flying from China to New York. Instead, they had to make a detour to Phuket, Thailand first...

followed by Istanbul, Türkiye.

Quito, Ecuador

Then they finally reached Quito, the capital of Ecuador.

This is where they started the next phase of their odyssey. It would be a 6,000km journey, across eight countries, to the southern border of the US, in a bid to enter a brave new world through illegal means.

They weren’t the first to do so. This path, taken by Chinese migrants before them, has been called “Walk the Line”.

The emergence of Chinese migrants

In 2023, more than 37,400 Chinese migrants entered the US illegally via its southern border.

This was more than 50 times the number in 2021, according to data from the US Customs and Border Protection.

Illegal Chinese migrants camp overnight at the US-Mexico border wall in Jacumba Hot Springs, California.
US border patrol officials round up migrants for processing, while prioritising families with children first.

The Chinese were the fastest-growing migrant group encountered by the US Border Patrol.

Three years of pandemic lockdowns had ruined the lives of many in the world’s second-largest economy. People lost their businesses, their savings, their homes and ended up in debt.

The future looked bleak for others even after the end of China’s zero-COVID policy. Economic recovery has faltered, and the slowdown in growth has sapped consumer confidence.

Against this backdrop, videos of Chinese people crossing a dense tropical jungle along with a vast number of South Americans, started appearing on short video apps such as Douyin, the Chinese version of TikTok, and platforms like YouTube.

Some Chinese migrants would upload short videos documenting how they travelled to the US-Mexico border. Many included step-by-step tips on how to do the same.

To find hope again in the US, they were attempting one of the world’s most dangerous migration routes.

This was how Dad hatched his plan. “I did a lot of research on YouTube and Telegram,” he said. And he figured the family’s tight budget of 200,000 yuan (US$27,500) was just enough to get his family to the Promised Land.

Like many before him, he soon realised that simply getting out of China would be one of the hardest parts of the plan. The rising number of people heading for the US illegally had raised suspicion among Chinese immigration officers.

So the tips shared in Telegram group chats, for example, came in handy.

Take a detour to a viable holiday destination first. A lot of Chinese go to Thailand, for example. That’ll raise less suspicion. But you must know your tourist itinerary.
Avoid overpacking or bringing items like camping gear. And make sure to buy refundable return tickets, which you can cancel once overseas.
Book your next flight to a country with easy visa application processes for Chinese travellers, like Egypt and Türkiye. You can go to the Americas from there.
Scrub all these tips from your phone before leaving China!
Map

Chapter 1

Pre-crossing prep at Quito and Necocli

That was how Lucy’s family reached Ecuador, the country closest to the US that had allowed Chinese passport holders to enter visa-free.

They had come to a country that was becoming narco-ridden, where cartels and crime groups were engaging in armed conflict with government forces.

From Quito, it is a five-hour bus ride to Tulcan, a town on the Ecuadorian border with Colombia.

Another pair of Chinese migrants, Auntie Lan and Uncle Wang, enlist the help of a local with crossing over into Colombia.
Ecuador has been a major transit point for Chinese nationals looking to “walk the line”.

It is a trip that could go dangerously wrong. Car bombs, for example, have rocked the country as part of the widening security crisis.

At the border, Chinese migrants without a visa to enter Colombia can pay locals a small fee to help with registration to pass through the country.

In Colombia, the nearest city to its western border is Pasto.

From there, the migrants hope to get to Necocli, in the north, via a domestic flight to the nearby city of Monteria.

Necocli: A town rebuilt on the smuggling of migrants

Once a tourist spot, the beach town of Necocli has become a migrant base camp since the pandemic. This is the place to make preparations to cross the dangerous Darien Gap, the jungle separating Colombia from Panama.

The town’s economy has been rebuilt on the smuggling of migrants across the jungle. Essentials such as camping equipment, hiking boots, food rations and even sulphur powder to ward off snakes are readily found there.

Dad and other migrants stock up on items for their trek through the Darien Gap’s dense jungle terrain.
Migrants first take a ferry to other seaside towns in Colombia. They then either go on foot to the Darien Gap or take a speedboat at night to Panama to get closer.
Migrants first take a ferry to other seaside towns in Colombia. They then either go on foot to the Darien Gap or take a speedboat at night to Panama to get closer.

Choices must be made: Do they buy — and therefore carry — a portable stove for their trek if they want to eat food such as instant noodles? Should they buy or make food that will keep, like beef jerky?

These migrants must decide what belongings to get rid of to make space for their tents and tarpaulin. They also need to choose their smuggling route from three main packages.

Acandi

  • Difficulty: Highest
  • Cost: US$350/person
  • Distance: Longest

They can take a boat to Acandi. It is the cheapest route (US$350) and the most popular among the South Americans but entails the longest, most difficult jungle trek.

Capurgana

  • Difficulty: Medium
  • Cost: US$480/person
  • Distance: Medium

They can take a two-and-a-half-hour boat ride to Capurgana and then tackle the Darien Gap, which is the middle option (US$480).

Carreto

  • Difficulty: Easiest
  • Cost: US$650-740/person
  • Distance: Shortest

Or they can enter the Darien Gap via Carreto in Panama, which offers the easiest jungle crossing — a 55-kilometre trek — but is the most expensive smuggling package, at around US$650 to US$740.

A ride into hell

Dad opted for Carreto, which meant heading for Capurgana in Colombia first and then setting out on illegal boats at night, under cover of darkness, to avoid detection by Panamanian coastal patrols.

Even before the Chinese migrants get to the jungle, they run — or rather ride — into hell.

The smugglers don’t use radar, sonar or lights. And with the high-speed escapes they may have to make, this means the risks are high. “We were tossed into the air, fell back and smashed the wooden seats,” said Dad.

Lucy’s mother was “scared to death”. “On my boat, there were lots of children. It was painful to hear them cry,” Mum recounted.

“Also, my boat broke down in the middle of the ocean. It was just drifting … for about 20 minutes. It was horrifying. If they couldn’t fix the boat and needed to head back, I wouldn’t go again.”

Dad sustained minor injuries to his legs during their boat ride. Worse could have happened. “I heard 27 people went missing the night before,” he said. “Their boat capsized.”

Map

Chapter 2

Escaping the Darien Gap

For migrants who make it to the jungle, there are no roads, just challenging terrain over mountains and rivers. Crossing it requires walking on foot for up to a week.

Those who fail to keep pace with the jungle guides could be left behind to follow the rubbish-strewn routes on their own. The routes are not fixed, however, owing to changes wrought by the weather.

Besides deep, slippery mud and unpredictable river surges, those crossing the Darien Gap must avoid venomous animals and contracting tropical diseases.
Migrants set up tents to camp overnight at a rest stop in the Darien Gap.
Migrants set up tents to camp overnight at a rest stop in the Darien Gap.

Many of the Chinese, exhausted, pay porters to carry their bags and even their children until they set up camp at the end of each day.

But nightfall may not necessarily bring relief. Falling branches can cause injuries, or worse, a flash flood could descend on them.

Migrants are liable to sprain or even break their ankles while climbing the muddy terrain or walking on slippery rocks at river crossings. And there’s the wildlife. The Darien Gap is home to 7 of the 10 world’s most venomous snakes.

It is not uncommon for migrants to come across a dead body or two.

What can hardly be found in the jungle, however, is any police or governmental presence. Colombia’s largest drug cartel and neo-paramilitary group, the Gulf Clan, controls the area, and women and young migrants are especially vulnerable to rape and mistreatment.

The way out of the jungle is largely by river. Depending on their route, migrants will pass through either Bajo Chiquito or Canaan Membrillo, key villages in the Darien Gap that house indigenous communities.

The illegal arrivals have not gone unnoticed by Panamanian authorities. In these villages, the migrants must queue for hours to be received and registered by the National Migration Service.

Migrants board river canoes to reach village stops in the Darien Gap. During the dry season, they have to help to push the heavy boats off into the water.

Lucy’s family arrived in Canaan Membrillo and then were taken by canoe to another village, Puerto Limon, several hours away.

Illegal immigrants a boon for locals

The unstoppable flow of migrants from numerous countries has touched off a boom in the local economy of these villages, and stalls have emerged to cater for them.

Although the villagers’ native language is Spanish, in Puerto Limon there are signs in Chinese announcing, for example, the availability of currency exchange utilising WeChat Pay and Alipay.

A small shop’s sign in Chinese states that it also offers currency exchange services for American dollars.
A small shop’s sign in Chinese states that it also offers currency exchange services for American dollars.
Another sign written in Chinese states different snacks and drinks for sale.
Another sign written in Chinese states different snacks and drinks for sale.

There are shops stocked with products found in China, from instant noodles to herbal drinks to spice mixes. There is even a shop run by a Chinese migrant. An ecosystem around the migrant trade is born.

Migrants arriving in Puerto Limon will not have to wait long for the trucks belonging to Panama’s national border service, Senafront, to trundle in and take them away to government-run migration reception centres.

The government controls the flow of migrants so that they are not out on the streets. Impoverished migrants may have to stay for weeks and put up with overcrowded, filthy conditions as well as limited food supplies and health services.

The United Nations even reported in December 2022 that some officials had solicited sexual favours from migrants in exchange for a seat on the government buses heading out of Panama.

Chinese migrants, meanwhile, usually only stay for a night and are then transported by bus to Costa Rica, as they can afford to pay the fare, which is at least US$40 per person.

They will continue bussing their way through Costa Rica, Nicaragua and Honduras, a trip that is largely uneventful compared to what came before, until they reach Guatemala, where they will most likely have to pay for passage at several police checkpoints or risk getting sent back to Honduras.

Then at the border with Mexico, where the Suchiate River flows, they are taken across on makeshift rafts to the last country they must traverse to reach the US.

Map

Chapter 3

Getting to the Promised Land

Once in Mexico, the migrants become easy prey for human predators.

In the border town of Ciudad Hidalgo, where an international bridge is the only legal means of entry, gangs control the south side, and robbery is common.

Lucy’s family and other Chinese migrants realised this when they were led into an ambush across the river, strip-searched and robbed.

Mum and another migrant recount their harrowing ordeal.

They were left to find a driver who would take them to Tapachula, a city near Mexico’s southern border.

With three immigration checkpoints to navigate on the way to Tapachula, however, they risked getting sent back to Guatemala.

To avoid this, they alighted before the checkpoints and continued on foot through forests and groves before their driver picked them up again.

But for a second time in the couple of hours they had been in Mexico, they walked into a trap: Mum and Lucy were taken hostage in the driver’s village and ransomed for US$300, which Dad had to borrow from other migrants.

"The whole village must be involved," he said. "The adults, children, women and the elderly … they’re an industry."

“I was panicking inside," Mum recounted after they were finally taken to Tapachula.

Hefty sum for a safe route

Some Chinese migrants, who have either heard enough horror stories or experienced some of their own, elect instead to pay a smuggler to take them all the way to the US border. The cost? Anywhere between US$5,500 and US$9,000.

Mexican smugglers regularly move groups of four to eight migrants across the country. One smuggler CNA spoke to said he had moved a group of 17 Chinese migrants before.

The smugglers pay off officers at the land checkpoints so that the migrants may pass. They also promise no attacks or kidnapping. But women remain vulnerable in the hands of these smuggling gangs.

The alternative, according to the smugglers, is worse.

From Tapachula to the Mexican city of Arriaga, about 100km away, there are as many as 17 checkpoints.

Road to Arriaga

It is a four-hour ride by public bus, and if the bus is stopped, migrants on board can expect to pay the police or immigration officers a bribe of 200 pesos (US$10) each time.

Border officials are seen stationed at a checkpoint.
Border officials are seen stationed at a checkpoint.
Mum and Dad stash some spare money away as a precaution before setting off for the multi-checkpoint journey.
Mum and Dad stash some spare money away as a precaution before setting off for the multi-checkpoint journey.

Migrants may resort to hiding their money in toilet paper rolls or hiding themselves in the toilet on the bus. But the risk of getting sent back to Tapachula or across the border remains if they do not pay up.

Mexico City, Mexico

It is just a foretaste of things to come. The bus ride from Arriaga to the capital Mexico City 900km away takes 20 hours and goes through cartel territories, where anything could happen: Robbery, assault, rape, kidnapping.

“Torturous” migrant detention system

This is a journey that will take days, with the migrants travelling a few hundred kilometres at a time. And if they are sent to migration detention centres, the conditions are no less harrowing.

Non-governmental organisations such as the Fray Matias de Cordova Human Rights Centre have documented physical and psychological abuse in the “torturous environment” that is Mexico’s migrant detention system, where migrants could be detained for up to 60 days.

In March 2023, when migrants in one detention centre started a fire as a protest, the guards walked off, allowing the fire to get out of control. The fire killed 40 migrants trapped in their cells.

Some migrants buy a motorcycle for several hundred dollars to ride across Mexico. While this takes less time than a bus, it can be tiring. And some villages may not be safe to pass through, with robbery a distinct possibility.

For other migrants, the greatest risk is right along the border.

Dying right on the border with the US

In the Mexican border town of Tijuana, for example, the US border wall extends into the Pacific Ocean.

It is a short distance, but conditions are treacherous. Migrants have died trying to swim to the US, whether in Tijuana or elsewhere such as the Rio Grande, a river that flows along a good part of the border between the two countries.

The Spanish words “migrantes fallecidos”, meaning “deceased migrants”, are scrawled onto a portion of the US-Mexico border wall.
The Spanish words “migrantes fallecidos”, meaning “deceased migrants”, are scrawled onto a portion of the US-Mexico border wall.

If migrants do not pay the Mexican cartels controlling the border crossings and strike out on their own instead, they could run into wild animals or get lost in the American desert, without food or water.

One Chinese couple with a toddler whom CNA had first met in Mexico wandered for about seven hours near the border wall before they used WeChat to call our correspondent Wei Du. She, in turn, had to alert the border police to rescue them.

Even migrants brought by Mexican smugglers to entry points patrolled by the US Border Police on the other side — for example in Jacumba, California — may have to spend up to five days in the desert cold.

With the sheer number of illegal migrants on the US southern border, many of them must camp out before they are taken into custody.

Families are processed first, while the rest may have little to no food while waiting except the supplies that American volunteers provide amid the border crisis their country is facing. These supplies are often not enough.

Migrants are given colour coded wristbands to mark which day they arrived at the US-Mexico border.
Migrants are given colour coded wristbands to mark which day they arrived at the US-Mexico border.
A Chinese couple presents their passports before a US border patrol official.
A Chinese couple presents their passports before a US border patrol official.

When it is finally their turn, they are searched, photographed and herded into groups.

There are rules on the clothing they can wear — only a single layer is allowed and no jackets, for example — before they are handcuffed and bussed out.

Awaiting them are detention centres where 30 to 40 people may be squeezed into overcrowded cells at any one time. It’s only after their release are they left to make the most of the brave new world they had risked so much to reach.

While the journey into their new lives is just starting, for these migrants who have got so far, they are done “walking the line”.

Map

Epilogue

As of Jul 1, 2024, Ecuador had ended its visa-free entry for Chinese citizens, citing irregular migration.

Meanwhile, Chinese migrants are still entering the US illegally via its southern border.

More of them have done so in the first nine months of 2024 than over the same period in 2023.

Lucy’s family made it to the US and are currently living in the Los Angeles metropolitan area.

Dad and his family visit Santa Monica State Beach.
Dad and his family visit Santa Monica State Beach.
Lucy breaks into a smile during a lighthearted moment shared with her parents.
Lucy breaks into a smile during a lighthearted moment shared with her parents.

After the 2024 US Presidential Election, Mum and Dad were let go from their jobs in a warehouse. Dad has since become a food delivery driver.

Lucy is enrolled in a local high school. All her family are now scared about being deported once President-elect Donald Trump assumes office.